Appetites: It's citrus season

Winter usually means a dearth of fresh fruit — unless it's citrus.

Of course citrus is not local, but it has a long history in the Midwest as being the fruit of choice during cold winter months for a lot of good reasons, says Beth Dooley, author of "In Winter's Kitchen."

"It was really prized," she said. "It was actually a treat, it was put in people's stockings, it was brought in and savored like candy. And I think of it that way today."

Additionally, citrus is loaded with Vitamin C and plenty of antioxidants. It is an acidy fruit that cuts through the rich, heavy soups and casseroles we crave when it's cold.

"After you've had a really hearty stew, say a beef stew or a big pork loin or something, it's lovely to have citrus as a finish, because it kind of cleanses everything," Dooley said.

Here's Beth Dooley's guide to some of the more unusual citrus fruits available at local grocers:

• Cara-cara Oranges: naval variety, sweeter and juicier than the more-common "Washington Naval"
• Moro Blood Orange: familiar gorgeous, bright-red flesh and bright, tangy flavor (see recipe below)
• Seville and Bergamot Oranges: sour and prized for marmalade, but also good as a substitute for lemons and limes
• Kara Mandarin: small and brightly flavored
• Meyer Lemons: floral, nearly sweet lemon
• Kiefer Limes: more lemony than limey and essential in Thai food
• Key Limes: the key to a good pie
• Kumquats: throw them into the roasting pan with chicken and pork or slice and boil in a simple syrup
• Limequats: limey version of kumquats

Blood orange syrup recipe

By Beth Dooley
Makes about 1/2 cup

3 to 4 blood oranges

1 cup sugar

1 vanilla bean

This is citrus season. The choices are many as are the many ways to put these fresh fruits to good use. Try this blood orange syrup on toast or scones, ice cream and as a glaze for roast chicken or pork. It's terrific on the cheese plate, too.

Slice the blood oranges very thin and remove the seeds. Put in a non-reactive pot and add the sugar.

Split the vanilla bean down the center and add it to the pot. Cover the pot and set over low heat and cook, stirring occasionally, until the sugar is dissolved, about five minutes.

Remove the lid and continue cooking and stirring until the juices begin to thicken, about 15 to 20 minutes. The longer this cooks, the thicker the sauce will be.

Remove from the heat and store in a clean glass jar with a lid. Store in the refrigerator.

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